Well folks, we somehow made it back to Icelandia--but are you really surprised?
NOV 19:
24 hours in Reykjavik, and this is 100% how I would have spent it all over again.
It was a flight stuffed to the lid with tourists that marked my touch down back onto main-character soil. There were more people eager for a first glimpse of Icelandia on this flight than any of my previous ventures, and I'd be lying if I said it didn't surprise me a little. I was almost annoyed to be crammed into 767 with them all for 5 hours. Why are they here now? Did they miss the visit-in-summer memo? Why are there so many families with children? Life's mysteries I can't pretend to know or solve right now.
Luckily, I had eaten the best airport chicken cesar salad in Boston just half an hour prior to my boarding, complete with an overfilled (woohoo) pint of beer, so after takeoff I was able to get a little bit of rest. I mean truly, what a glorious feast for my journey ahead. I sent my recommendation to Ethan, as he might need just as killer of a salad one day in BOS. Recently in my 22-23rd years, I've starting having this thing on planes where my left hip behind to feel sore/strained--especially if I'm on the right side of the plane and trying to rest against the window. I don't know if its the way I'm sitting or if it's a bigger spinal issues at hand, but having just visited the chiropractor the morning before my flight so not only was my hip flamed, but my neck felt like it had been hit by a bus. It wasn't an alarming pain, more like a dull ache, but I'm really only including this in here for my own record keeping if I ever need to medically confirm when I started noticing it all. Back to the flight.
The child in front of me (yeah, you know where I'm going with this.) was tasked with the impossible--choosing sleep over the endless movies at the touch of her finger mere inches from her face. Why anyone was taking a 4 year old on a winter vacation to Iceland is beyond me, but needless to say she put up a fierce fight until 30m before our 6:30am landing. Getting to KEF this early is funny--it's not fully awake yet, but still enough to throw you headfirst into a 45 minute customs line and shovel you into buying a questionably expensive bus ticket. I don't mind the flybus, and at this point the BSI is about as unusual a place to me as the airport, so when I jumped down off the bus stairs to grab my luggage and store it in a BSI locker at 7:50am I made on my merry way. The streets were dark, but google maps had a couple coffee spots scouted to open up , so I enjoyed making my way around--having Reykjavik almost entirely to myself. Of course stop #1 was Braud & Co, which might be basic by Icelanders standards, but I'm not Icelandic so I love it, plus to be completely honest I found it by mistake when the parents were in town June 20-25, so the relationship formed organically.
For a while I had been giving myself space to feel the emotions that coming back would bring up in me—fully expecting a wide range to appear within a quick span of time. However that couldn’t be further from the reality that sunk into my mind as I settled at my small table in the twinklingly-lit, lower room, of one of the first coffee houses to open today. Even though it was 9:30am the outdoors were dark and misty, giving the clustering groups of people laughing quietly and wrapping themselves around mugs that I had found myself surrounded by, an even warmer ambience. It felt like getting up early on the first day of a new adventure, which I suppose writing this now from my airbnb it truly was. I had physically been up at 6, I had walked an almost entirely Reykjavik for the past two hours, and I was flipping into a new book that had me laughing over my latte foam--all in my favorite turtleneck. :)
The rest of the day I spent trying to find new ways to see in the city I had spent the summer in. I bought some candles and cloths at H&M for some last minute decor, went to the top of the HallgrÃmskirkja (why hadn't I done this sooner?!), visited the Rvk Art Museum near the harbor (why hadn't I done THIS sooner?!)
and experienced some incredibly cool sculptural installations and painting pieces, then camped out with my book for another round of funnies in Rvk Coffee Roasters. I signed up for this interactive art exhibit called "Horse Inside Out" as per the museum attendants recommendation--my time slot is tomorrow at 10:40am. I really don't know what to expect as they didn't tell me much of anything, but I expect it'll be a bit beyond words.
My airbnb host allowed me to check in early, so I went back to the BSI and collected my very large, very heavy bag, and flagged my first taxi. In truth, I coud've walked it, but it was rainy, my bags were bulging, and if there's one thing I have zero self restraint for--it's convenience luxuries. The space is beyond glorious--its minimal, natural toned, central, and private. I napped, edited my last photos of Holland :),
then freshened up to meet Rikke for dinner. We visited my favorite food hall (Grandi Mathöll) where I got Lamb Stew and Rikke got trash fries (to which Iti responded quickly and as loudly as she could over text)--and it was so restful to just sit and talk. It's not my first meal I've spent with Rikke, but the first where I can say I've sat in her company as a friend beyond work proximities. I'm so thankful she was able to meet--it makes me feel like I'm back where I should be. On top of that, I think the job I'm heading into will be similar to her current situation (with the exception that I'll be assuming more of a learning role, and she fearlessly leads the training and care of her horses), so I desperately loved her advice & insight. We laughed over our shared love of FlyOver Iceland...before going together for our (5th?) times, and ended up with an entirely private showing. The poor attendant was really trying to do his job and guide us through each stage of the 'experience,' but despite our efforts to be respectful we ended up laughing through it all until the main event. Just as incredible as I remembered it, but I will admit I was wrong--the bottom row is definitely better than the top. I will only say that once, so if you read it here, don't expect to every read it from me again.
We wanted to go for ice cream at OmNom after, but they closed a mere 5 minutes before we arrived, so we went to the Italian gelato/icecream spot in the center of town and made fun of their serving sizes before walking around to peep at the lights. It turns out the large scary cat I sent a photo of to mom and dad is an Icelandic legend that if children don't get new clothes for christmas, the christmas cat will arrive at night and eat them. Either horrible or brilliant--you decide.
I said goodbye to Rikke, and have just showered in the glorious rain-shower head with the water as hot as it would go. Peaceful doesn't even begin to cover it as my eye get heavy and these words get blurrier.
NOV 20:
I write this from the backseat of my new Boss' truck as we speed along the windy mountain rode towards my new home--but let's backtrack a little.
This morning my Airbnb host graciously agreed to let me checkout around 4pm, so I rose around 9 to pack my things in a generally organized manner, do a slow morning routine, and hit up Braud & Co and my little cafe (I swear I'm not gatekeeping, I just can't remember how to spell the name. But its next to this building with huge black and white graphic cartoon style mural right down the street from Brand & Co if you really want to find it:) where I had the best BLT of my entire life in the empty upstairs level and the morning late faded from dark to dusty blue, and the warm Christmas light-wrapped beams bounced light around my warm little space. I read until it was time to go to my museum event,
saying a final goodbye to my hideaway until December.
The walk to the museum was brisk, and when I arrived the attendant guided me into the room and closed the door. I took off my shoes and looked up to find a large womb of sorts in the center of the room--with a small opening on the side I was clearly meant to enter. I won't right much on the experience here just in case, but even still I'm not sure I'd have the proper words for it? It was so much more than just art, it was energy, exploration, and the best kind of discomfort. It made me think about my relationship to the parts of myself beyond societal impact, or physical control.
I took a long walk to allow my mind and body to release any tension from the experience and enjoyed the light rain and wind. Near lunch I went for a lamb hot dog at the stand near the church, where two birds did their best to beg crumbs off of me, before crossing the tiny street to fulfill my craving for a pint at the grass roofed pub. It made me laugh as I sat at bar, the median client age being probably 60, and of middle-high class status. What a place these hive minded travelers find themselves in for lunch on a day like this. I should've found somewhere else for my pint, but this was close, and my Airbnb was a mere 2 minutes away so when I closed out I scampered home for a fatttttt nap.
At 4 Rikke's boss came to pick me up and bring me to their stable so I could wait on my new boss. I don't know what I expected her employers to be like, but I was completely blown away. Their kindness, care, and gentleness were beyond what I had experienced from horse people so far--anywhere in the world. I always enter equestrians centers with the expectation of a certain level of ego/bravado, a "you're not as tough/rugged as me" mentality, and for all of my mistakes (factual or by their own preference) to be highlighted and hashed. So far in my places of equestrian employment those have all been more than true. But Rikke's barn was so different. Her boss' asked me questions about myself, personally groomed each of their horses with care and affection as we chattered away in the brilliantly cozy stable. Her place was always incredibly nice, but now knowing these are the incredible humans behind it, I can see why she's stayed for as long as she has. From bringing her freshly made christmas cake to start the celebrations early, to asking her opinion on each of the horses, and respecting the attached apartment as her private space--I could've worked all day every day for them too.
After long conversation and laughs, my new boss arrived.
Even this part is a bit blurry as I admit myself to have been more nervous than I thought I should be. It wasn't like I was going off to compete for a place in employment--I have this job, and he's been so kind, I have to keep reminding myself its ok to relax. This dream that started on that soggy, Alaskan day is gathering up around me and beginning--It's ok to smile!
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